My Manali-Leh-Khardung La expedition-The journey to the footsteps of Heaven.

Manali-Leh-Khardung La cycling route is one of the most difficult,challenging though scenic and popular route amongst the cyclists throughout the world. It cover a distance of 577 kms in 10 days crossing 6 high passes- Rohtang La(3,900m),Barlacha La(4,992m),Nakeela(4,850m),Lachung La(4,800m),Tanglang La(5,200m being the 2nd highest motorable pass in the world) and Khardung La(5,359m being the highest motorable pass in the world!).

We were a group of 22 individuals each  belonging to a different profession but bound by passion of cycling.Our group had people from Nasik,Kolhapur,Parbhani,Beed,Mumbai and Dehradun. Each one had a different reason for undertaking this expedition-for some it was about pushing their own limits,for some it was about exploring the picteristique upper himalaya and leh region,for some it was yet another expedition. For me it was about fulfilling my dream. It was about putting myself through yet another expedition where I would be challenging myself!

 This being a tough expedition all of us under went gruelling practice sessions of 4-5 months 2-3 days each week. Over these months we prepared ourselves in every aspect.

And finally the day arrived! The day which would take us a step closer towards our dream expedition-19th august! Our Nasik group left on 18th aug in evening as we had a Mumbai-Chandigarh flight the next morning. On arriving in Chandigarh we met our fellow trek mates from other cities. The excitement coupled with a bit of anxiousness on everyone's face was evident. We then travelled to Manali by a traveller bus which took complete 12 hrs. Tired still determined we reached our hotel Silver Breech all ready for the upcoming day.

                                                                          DAY 1

                                          ACCLIMATIZATION IN AND AROUND MANALI

This day is one of the most important day of any expedition which can largely decide one's future health conditions as our body needs time to get acclimatized to new weather conditions. So our day started with a practice cycling session at 9 am in the hills of Manali. We were issued brand new cycles, my being Merida. Taking our cycles we explored the hills around manali and thus ended our practice session. 

It was then followed by a sumptous north indian lunch. Some of my team mates decided to visit town to buy some cycling gear. I headed for a trail with our kitchen staff member who took me to his village and few neighbouring temples. All I could see around were huge apple orchids laden with delicious apples which i got to relish! The weather was also pleasant. In evening we were briefed about our expedition route,weather conditions,food and safety measures by our organiser Mr.Khem Raj Thakur of Mountain Expeditions. Listening to him we got an idea of what we were going to face. Yes,some of us did freak out a bit but it's natural! With just few hours to go we winded up early looking forward to our first day.

                                 DAY 2  

                                         MANALI-MARHI 37KM (3,354M)    

Today's cycling took us through picturestesque upper Manali valley on nice road with solid climbing through out the way. We were flagged of at 6:10am by Mr.Khem Raj Thakur. With the first pedal itself I felt sheer happiness! Finally me and Oreo(yes,that's the name of my bike!) were together. Since we left early morning we didn't face much traffic. The first patch of 12km till Palchan village was with ups and downs and everyone felt comfortable. Then came the uphill route of 25kms. As the road was in good condition,it went smoothly for me.

 

Just 3-4 kms before marhi I had an unanticipated fall where i bruised my knees badly. The backup team being supportive dressed up the wound immediately. It did cause me a little discomfort but didn't stop me from cycling my way to Marhi! Our camp was just as beautiful as I had though. Me being the only girl got the privilege of having a seperate tent which looked like an igloo! Through out the day it was foggy and rained heavily at night due to which even our sleeping mattress got wet. 

               DAY 3

MARHI-SISU/GONDLA 59KM (3,160M)

Today was an important day as we had to cross the first pass on our route -Rohtang La. We had an early flag off at 6:30am. It was so foggy that we could see nothing but the road. As I reached the top i was greeted by the scenic landscape! But as anticipated there were no tourists and traffic.

Next came a downhill stretch which usually follows every pass,this being of 18km. Remaining ride till Sisu was the most enjoyable part! The route was along side a river. Our campsite was right in front of a big waterfall. We even got the luxury of having a bath! Oreo had a clean up and oiling session.

       DAY 3

                           SISU/GONDLA-JISPA/DARCHA 54KM (3,400M)                                                                   

After an early flag off at 6:30am we hit the road for Jispa. Today's road was in a good condition though a bit dusty at places. Route till enroute village Tandi was bad. And no sooner my Oreo's brakes starting failing! But our guide Gangeram fixed it in no time. At Tandi we saw the sangam of two rivers-Chandra and Bhaga. The water that flows from south of the Barlacha La pass is called Chandra river and those that flow north is called Bhaga river which later flows into Punjab,Pakistan as Chenab river.

                                           Starting from tandi wa 9km uphill climb till Keylong which is an important administrative centre of Lahaul and Spiti district. It even helped to decide my goal for next year-Keylong hale marathon! Here we had our mini lunch of sandwich and potato.

After Keylong came an uphill ghat with many closely packed loops! The road was newly made so the cycle tyres used to stick to the tar which made it a little difficult and hence we used to call it a"magnetic road"! After reaching Jispa we had this delicious maharashtrian lunch of kadhi and pakoda and everyone ate heartily!

      DAY 4
            JISPA/DARCHA-ZINGZING BAR 40KM(4,600M)

Today's route was as intresting as the name of our next campsite! The terrain changed drastically. No longer could we see tall tress. The tree line had disappeared. The mountains had huge loose rocks and glaciers which melted to form small streams.

The most enthrilling moment was at a place called Deepak Tal which was before our camp. To break the monotony of our routine all of us danced our way on the tunes of "slow motion angreza"! Not once but twice! Yes,this is how our team was!

I could cover the uphill climb of 7km till our camp in 50 mins which was good for a start all thanks to my yoga pranayam practice.It was sunny still there was coolness in air.

 

DAY 5

ZINGZINGBAR-BRANDY NULLAH 71KM (4,000M)

The name sounds weird,right? Well no one knows why it is called so. Not even our guide. Today I got the chance to do the flag off! SO we left early than our usual time at 5:50am. Barlach La pass of 18kms lay in front of us at the height of 4,992m. It was freezing cold at the pass so we decide to wait downhill at a place called Bharatpur for our mini lunch where we had refreshing lemon ginger tea in a small cosy hotel!

After bharatpur we crossed a village called Sarchu which lies on the boundary between Himachal and J&K. The Sarchu valley is definately one of the most divine place of  J&K where one is surrounded by 360 degree view of  mountains,straight flat road,clear sky and a pleasurable coolness in air!

 

DAY 6

BRANDY NULLAH-PANG 57KM(4,630M)

This day had to be one of the most challenging day of our entire expedition. We had to face 3 passes today-Gata loops, Nakeela and Lachungla. So we decided to leave early at 5:45 am. Gata loops is an uphill climb of 11kms with 21 complete loops many of which can be seen from above and below as well.

Following Gata loops was Nakeela pass.I decided to go ahead without waiting for long at nakeela as the cold wasn't tolerable for me.

Lachungla pass posed a real challenge for us. The road was rutted with more gradient than the two passes and the exhaustion added to it. After reaching the top I couldn't control my emotions! I could experience happiness and tiredness at the same time which poured out in the form of tears!

Then followed another dance session at 16,636 freaking feet! But what lay ahead was yet another task that I personally wasn't aware off. The downhill strtch till Pang was in a pathetic condition. The road was ruttted.It had loose rocks with mud which made it difficult. It takes a toll on you as you need to be constantly aware and in control. It was tiring but the route was scenic beyond words! The various rock formations which were formed due to the winds were  huge and mesmerizing!

 

Reaching Pang the strenuous part of our expedition was more or less done. At Pang there is the world's highest transit military camp which we got to see! As there was satellite phone facility,we got a chance to call our homes for 2 mins! Pang being at a height of 4,630m was defiantely much colder than any of our camps. The night and early morning temperature dropped between 0-5 degrees.

DAY 7

PANG-TSOKAR LAKE 44KM (4,269M)

 This was the day which many of us had been looking forward too as we had to traverse through the Morey Plains. Morey plains is a plain area of 35-40km flanked by high mountains on both sides. It is a truly pleasurable ride as for the first time most of us got to ride on the 3rd gear! It has no construction and no population.

There was a diversion for Tsokar lake which was 5km interior from our route. Tsokar lake is a salt water lake with extreme temperatures ranging from -40degrees in winter to 30degrees in summer.

DAY 8
TSOKAR LAKE TO LATO 73KM (3,700M)
Yet another important day for us! today we had to cross the Tanglang La pass-the 2nd highest pass after Khardung La. The 28km climb till top was a difficult one with the road being bad and loose rocks on the way.Later did we realise that it was worth the pain taken because what followed after it was a 35km downhill route!

 

The wind velocity increased as we descended. We even had to face a hailstrom which none of us had anticipated! Reaching Rumtse,a samll hamlet before Lato,I had my 2 cuppas of coffee which vanished all my tiredness!

  DAY 9
LATO-LEH 78KM (3,5OOM)
And the day arrived,when we would be entering" The Land of Lamas", "The Moon Land"- LEH! Today's route was the most scenic route of the entire expedition! The leh valley which starts from a village called Upushi mesmerized us!

Our stay today was in a hotel. Each one of us was glad to feel the comfort of bed,bath and food again!

DAY 10
LEH-KHARDUNGLA 78KM (5,540M)
The day we had been waiting for finally arrived! The day when each one of us would be tested. The day when each was us would be pushing one's own limit.The day which used to give us nightmares! The uphill route was 28km and was divided in 2 parts of 14km each. The first part from Mendakh point(yeah,Mendakh!) to South Pullu upto where the road was good and had a gradual climb. The next 14kkm were the real challenge. Road was all rutted and had a steep climb. The presence of many huge trucks,military trucks and innumerable tourists vehicles made it more difficult.The road was so narrow that it cold accommodate only a single truck at a time.The route was even traversed by small streams.

The last 2 kms was the most enduring patch for me in the entire expedition! It wasn't about stamina or fitness then,it was about mental stability which was being tested largely. My mind kept me going till the end and finally I reached the top in 4hrs and 15 mins! The feeling was such that I had never experienced before!  The tourists were amazed to us cyclists and some even requested us to click a snap with them! My Khardung La top experience came to end with a hot cup of black tea and a delicious bowl of maggie! Meri Khardung La ki maggie!

 

2 weeks of adventure,2 weeks of adrenaline rush,2 weeks of self realisation,2 weeks of facing the extremes of nature,2 weeks of being an MLK Raider,2 most memorable weeks of our lives!

Each one of us had to fight his own battle each day. And that is what the biggest lesson I learned in span of 2 weeks. To the team who fought all odds and emerged victorious! Long live MLK Raiders!